Gemini Titan question.
 

OK, it's dumb question time:

Does the vertical UNITED STATES go on both side of the model, or just one side--to the right of the conduit?

ROTW doesn't quite say.

Thanks!

I assume both sides as the decal set includes 2 decals.

According to the David Week's drawings (available here) , both sides

EDIT: here are two views of Gemini 7 and it appears "United States" appears on two sides. The links are to flikr.

s65-61650
s65-61628

Thanks for the help. I was pretty sure it was both sides but I just wanted to be sure. The model in the post #1 photo is a scratch build from parts I?ve had lying around for years: PNC from Sirius, clear fin unit from a Beta Launch Vehicle kit, and decals from Sandman.

Well, I thought I was finished needing help with this, but I just did a close inspection of the vintage clear fin unit from the Beta Launch Vehicle kit and one of the fins is warped.

I would like to straighten it without breaking it. What do you think--heat gun and braces? I'm not sure if it's just regular styrene or not. It seems to be VERY flexible.

Thanks!

That plastic unit was used first in the Estes Titan II Missile kit along with the MX Missile and the later BT-60 based Gemini Titan kit.
That clear plastic is very brittle and breaks easily on landings. The color (black) molded ones from later Estes usages are far more durable. I wouldn't fly the clear fins. If you insist on flying those fins, upgrade to a 24" chute.
You may be able to straighten the warp with careful use of a heat gun.

I would try a dip in hot water before a heat gun to avoid over heating a specific spot. I did the same thing for a set of R2D2 fins once.

kj

I wonder whether there is a solution to 3-D print a fin unit in a more flexible material.


Bill

Clear styrene..
 

Hi all,

Clear styrene is notoriously brittle; I'd say a dip
in hot water may be the best way to go.

Bob
p.s.Jeff, lovely model as usual!

I've used a variable temp heat gun on an Alpha III with bent fins. I started on the lowest setting gradually working the temp up until the fins became plyable. I also noticed that aplying heat to the inward side of the curve would promote the fin twords a straighter postion. I also would over-correct it because upon cooling it would tend back to a curved state, albeit lessened. You just have to keep working it.